Chardonnay Cream Cheese Sauce

Chardonnay Cream Cheese Sauce

Ingredients:
shrimp shells, packed with lots
of easily released bonus shrimp flavour, and cream cheese, which melts into an instant tangy, creamy sauce. This is
a pasta sauce you can make in the time it takes the penne to cook. Serves 4
1 pound (500 g) of shrimp, shells reserved, each shrimp cut into 4 chunks
1 carrot, grated
1 bay leaf
2 cups (500 mL) of chardonnay
1 pound (500 g) of penne
1 cup (250 mL) or so of softened cream cheese
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of Dijon mustard
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped fresh tarragon
2 green onions, thinly sliced
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Put the shrimp shells, carrot, bay leaf, and wine in a small saucepan and bring to a
boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so the liquid is barely simmering. Cover
and simmer for 10 minutes or so.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the penne until it’s nearly
tender but not quite done. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until the
shrimp is cooked through and the pasta is tender, another 2 minutes or so.
Drain the pasta and shrimp and return them to the pot. Toss in the cream cheese and
mustard. Strain in the wine mixture, pressing every last drop of nectar out of the
shrimp shells. Toss in a few spoonfuls of the carrots minus the shells. Stir everything
together until the cream cheese melts and forms a smooth, creamy sauce. Stir in the
tarragon and green onions. Lightly season to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve and
share!
KITCHEN TIP
Normally, shrimp shells are thrown out, but there’s actually more shrimp flavour in the shell than in the shrimp itself.
Fortunately, that flavour is very easy to release—a short simmer in any liquid will quickly create an aromatic broth.
102 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
GRILLED TUNA STEAK WITH
WHITE BEAN ARUGULA SALAD AND
ANCHOVY DRESSING
Grilling tuna is one of my favourite ways to enjoy this filet mignon of the sea. Tuna’s rich fattiness and luxurious
texture allow it to grill as easily as any meat, and it’s at its best when its centre stays cool. Tuna’s big grill flavours
work well with other strong flavours, like briny anchovy dressing over a rich white bean salad tossed with sharp,
peppery arugula. Serves 4
1 cup (250 mL) of dried white beans, soaked overnight in 2 cups (500 mL) of water, or
1 can (14 ounces/398 mL) of white beans, rinsed and drained
8 oil-packed anchovies, drained and patted dry
The zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of grainy mustard
2 handfuls of arugula leaves (about 4 ounces/125 g)
2 green onions, thinly sliced
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
4 fresh tuna steaks (each 8 ounces/250 g and at least 1 inch/2.5 cm thick), patted dry
1/4 cup (60 mL) of olive oil
If you’re using dried beans, simmer them until tender, about an hour and possibly
longer. Drain and set aside while you ready the salad. In a salad bowl, mash the
anchovies into a thick paste with a fork. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, oil, and
mustard, then continue mashing until you form a smooth dressing. Season to your taste
with salt and pepper. Add the beans and toss until they’re thoroughly coated with the
dressing. Top with the arugula and green onions but—for maximum crispiness—wait
until just before serving to toss them with the marinating beans.
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Rub the tuna steaks with the olive oil. Lightly season the fish to your taste with salt and
pepper. Grill, turning once, until the fish is cooked to your liking, 3 to 5 minutes per
side for rare, 5 to 7 minutes for medium. Finish tossing the salad, then portion onto 4
plates and top with a slab of grilled tuna. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Several types of fresh tuna are typically available from your fishmonger. The most common choice is bigeye or ahi,
which is prized for its bright red flesh and rich flavour. Yellowfin is paler and also commonly available. Bluefin, the
richest and meatiest of all, is rarely seen in markets, as most ends up in the hands of high-end sushi chefs or on a
fast ride to the fish markets of Japan.
FISH 105
PAN-SEARED SCALLOPS WITH
HOUSE WINE SAUCE
Searing sweet briny scallops to give them a golden brown crispy crust is an essential cooking method for any cook’s
seafood repertoire. The secret is a hot pan, a high-heat, rapid cooking trick mastered by busy restaurant line cooks.
A hot pan not only browns the scallops but allows you to whip up a tasty wine sauce too. Serves 4
1 pound (500 g) or more of large fresh sea scallops, small tough side muscle removed, patted dry
1 cup (250 mL) of all-purpose flour
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of any cooking oil
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of butter
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 green onions, white and green parts thinly sliced separately
1 cup (250 mL) of your favourite dry wine
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of Dijon mustard
1/2 cup (125 mL) of whipping cream
Preheat your largest, heaviest frying pan over medium-high heat for a few minutes.
Meanwhile, toss the scallops in the flour and season them to your taste with salt and
pepper. Splash the oil into the hot pan, gently swirling until the oil is shimmering hot
but not smoking. Add the butter to the side of the pan where the oil gathers and pools.
When the butter has melted, swirl the pan for a moment or two until the butter just
begins to brown and sizzle. When the butter is golden brown and fragrant, quickly add
the scallops one at a time, in a single layer with a bit of space in between. Watch and
listen to the still-browning butter. Adjust the heat so it’s high enough to maintain a
sizzling sear but not so high that the butter begins to burn. Continue searing the
scallops, turning them once, until they’re evenly browned on both sides, 5 to 7
minutes. Transfer the caramelized scallops to a platter and cover loosely with foil to
keep warm.
Toss the garlic and the white part of the green onions into the pan and sauté them
briefly until they’re soft and aromatic, 2 minutes or so. Pour in the wine and simmer
until half of it has evaporated. Whisk in the mustard, then stir in the cream and reduce
until the sauce smoothes and thickens, another minute or two. Remove from the heat
and stir in the green onion tops. Pour the sauce over the scallops. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
As the wine reduces, the sauce will thicken, but without mustard, the wine and butter mixture will be unstable and
eventually separate. Mustard contains lecithin, an emulsifier, which stabilizes the sauce by encouraging the oil and
water to combine smoothly.
106 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
TORTILLA-CRUSTED WHITEFISH
WITH SALSA SALSA
This multicoloured dish is a great way to get kids to eat fish. Crisp tortilla chips are perfect for crusting— they’re full
of built-in crunch and familiar tasty texture. Your favourite zesty salsa jazzed up with a few fresh ingredients will
help too. Together, all these familiar flavours just might persuade your finicky eater to try seafood! Serves 4
1 cup (250 mL) of all-purpose flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups (500 mL) of hand-crumbled multicoloured tortilla chips
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
4 skinned fillets of any whitefish (about 1-1/2 pounds/750 g in total), patted dry
FOR THE SALSA
1/2 cup (125 mL) of your favourite salsa
1/2 cup (125 mL) of cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup (125 mL) of cilantro leaves and tender stems
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) of minced jalapeño
2 green onions, thinly sliced
The zest and juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of olive oil
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly oil a baking sheet.
Put the flour, eggs, and tortilla chips into 3 separate bowls. Season the flour. Working
with one fillet at a time, dredge the fillet in the flour, coating it evenly and shaking off
any excess. Dip the fillet into the egg, coating it evenly and holding it up to drain for a
few moments. Finally, dip the fillet into the tortilla chips, turning, pressing, and
sprinkling as needed so the crust adheres. Place the fish on the baking sheet. Repeat
with the remaining fillets. Bake until the fish is cooked through and crusty, 10 to 15
minutes. The fish is done when a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part
registers 130°F (55°C).
Meanwhile, toss together the salsa salsa. In a small bowl, mix the prepared salsa with
the tomatoes, cilantro, jalapeño, green onions, lime zest and juice, and olive oil.
Arrange the finished fish on a serving platter and top with the salsa. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Cherry tomatoes usually have more vine-ripened flavour than their larger green-picked cousins in your supermarket.
That true aromatic flavour shines through in this simple improvised salsa that brightens and builds from your
favourite salsa.
FISH 109
SMOKED SALMON–CRUSTED SALMON
WITH CUCUMBER-DILL PICKLE
This distinctive dish features two salmons for the price of one—a simply baked fillet under a crunchy smoked
salmon crust. It’s an irresistible way to stretch a little bit of luxurious smoked salmon into a lot of flavour, and it
makes a special dinner-party dish. Serves 4
1 cup (250 mL) of fresh or dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup (60 mL) of softened butter
4 ounces (125 g) of smoked salmon
4 centre-cut salmon fillets
(each about 6 ounces/175 g), patted dry
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of
freshly ground pepper
FOR THE PICKLE
1 large cucumber, peeled and diced
1 dill pickle, diced
1 cup (250 mL) of chopped fresh dill sprigs,
thicker stems discarded
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of cider vinegar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of honey
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly
ground pepper
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly oil a baking sheet.
Begin with the cucumber pickle. In a bowl, toss together the cucumber, dill pickle,
dill, green onions, vinegar, and honey. Lightly season to your taste with salt and
pepper, and put aside.
Put the bread crumbs and butter into your food processor and pulse until they form a
crumbly paste. Add the smoked salmon and pulse just long enough to coarsely chop it,
mixing it into the paste. Lightly season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper to your
taste. With your hands, spread one-quarter of the paste in a thick, even layer across the
top of each fillet. Place the salmon on the baking sheet and bake until crusty, 12 to 15
minutes.
Serve and share the salmon fillets with the pickle.
KITCHEN TIP
Conveniently, fish cooks much more quickly than meat, but that means it also dries out much faster too. To preserve
its flavourful moisture, try not to overcook it. Salmon is actually at its best when the centre is still a bit pink, similar to
medium-rare beef. If you’re not sure whether it’s done, simply make a small cut in the side and have a peek.
110 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
SERVING AND
Who’s at the table is far more important than what’s on the table. As cooks, it’s so
easy to get caught up in the process, the simple joy of cooking, that we lose sight of
why we cook to begin with. We’re at our best when we share.
SHARING
Food is really just one part of a meal. As brilliant as your creations may be, full of
artful flavours and impeccably sourced ingredients, they’re not the main event.
Spending time with your friends, family, and community is the real occasion. It’s
wonderful to be the cook, to facilitate our time together by simply sharing our best.
SLOW-BAKED SALMON WITH
HONEY MUSTARD GLAZE
Since salmon is a fatty fish, it’s often cooked quickly with high, searing heat that gives it a crispy crust. But salmon is
just as delicious when it’s cooked slowly. Gentle, patient heating gives it a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture that is
truly memorable—especially when it’s brightened with a simple honey mustard glaze. Serves 4
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of honey
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of your favourite mustard
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
4 centre-cut salmon fillets (each about 6 ounces/175 g), skinned and patted dry
Preheat your oven to the low, low temperature of 225°F (110°C). Lightly oil a
roasting pan.
Whisk together the honey, mustard, soy sauce, and hot sauce. Arrange the fillets in the
roasting pan skin side down, leaving an inch or two of space in between each one.
Spread the glaze evenly over the salmon.
Bake until the salmon is cooked through and opaque but still juicy, about 30 minutes.
Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
The gentle heat of this cooking method gives the salmon an incredibly luscious texture that you may not have
enjoyed before. It’s a delicate way to show off the fish’s natural flavours while revealing a smooth luxurious mouth
feel.
114 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
SPICY ORANGE-POACHED SALMON
WITH GINGER SOY MARMALADE
Poaching is one of the simplest ways to cook any fish. This time-tested method is as easy as simmering the fish in
any flavourful liquid. Poaching highlights the delicate texture of salmon while simultaneously adding lots of aromatic
flavour. Serves 4
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 large onion, diced
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 cups (1 L) of orange juice
The zest and juice of 2 lemons
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
2 bay leaves
4 centre-cut salmon fillets
(each about 6 ounces/175 g), patted dry
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly
ground pepper
FOR THE MARMALADE
1/2 cup (125 mL) of orange marmalade
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of grated frozen ginger
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce
2 green onions, thinly sliced
In a saucepan that’s just big enough to hold the salmon fillets in a single layer, heat the
oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions and garlic until they’re golden brown,
about 5 minutes. Add the orange juice, lemon zest, lemon juice, hot sauce, and bay
leaves. Bring the poaching liquid to a full boil, then reduce the heat so the liquid is
barely simmering. Slide in the salmon fillets and gently poach until they’re barely
cooked through, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, stir together the marmalade, ginger, soy sauce, and green onions. Gently
place each salmon fillet in a shallow bowl. Top with a ladle of the simmering
poaching broth and a dollop of the marmalade. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
The poaching broth’s job is to add more flavour to the fish than it takes away. If fish is poached in plain water, it will
lose flavour while the water gains flavour. A good poaching liquid like this one is flavoured so strongly that the fish
can’t help but absorb lots of aromatic flavour. You may judge the salmon’s doneness with a meat thermometer:
when it reaches 130°F (55°C) it’s done, or 140°F (60°C) if you prefer it a bit more well done.
FISH 117
GRILLED SALMON WITH GRILLED
TOMATO,
BASIL, AND CAPER SALAD
The high fat content of salmon makes it ideal for grilling. It easily absorbs the smoky, charred flavours of the grill
and is wonderful served with just about any topping, sauce, or condiment. Tomatoes are great on the grill too, where
they slowly roast, softening and intensifying in flavour. Chopped and tossed with aromatic basil and tangy capers,
they form an ideal topping for the grilled salmon. Serves 4
4 centre-cut salmon fillets (each about 6 ounces/175 g), patted dry
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
4 ripe plum tomatoes, halved
2 green onions
1 cup (250 mL) of fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of drained capers
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of red wine vinegar
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Lightly oil the salmon fillets, then lightly season them to your taste with salt and
pepper. Place the fish diagonally across the grates. Grill, turning once or twice, until
the fish is golden brown and cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes.
At the same time, lightly oil the tomatoes, then place them cut side down on the grill
along with the green onions. Lightly char them, turning once or twice. Transfer the
tomatoes to a small bowl and crush with a fork. Chop the green onions and toss in
along with the whole basil leaves, the capers, and the vinegar. Lightly season to your
taste with salt and pepper. Toss everything together and spoon over the grilled salmon.
Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Unlike most herbs, basil’s flavour is light and bright enough that the leaves can be enjoyed whole like a salad green
without having to be cut into smaller pieces.
118 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
MEDITERRANEAN BRAISED SALMON WITH
RIPE TOMATOES, OLIVES, AND OREGANO
Salmon is very versatile; there are as many ways to cook this fish as there are cooks. It easily accommodates
elaborate preparations, but it’s just as enjoyable prepared simply with lots of familiar Mediterranean flavours. Serves
4
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups (500 mL) of halved cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of dried oregano
1 cup (250 mL) of orange juice
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of red wine vinegar
4 centre-cut salmon fillets (each about 6 ounces/175 g), patted dry
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
2 green onions, thinly sliced
In your favourite large heavy sauté pan or frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high
heat. Toss in the onion and garlic and sauté for a few minutes until lightly browned,
soft, and aromatic. Add the tomatoes, olives, oregano, orange juice, and vinegar; cook
until simmering, a few minutes longer. Lightly season the salmon fillets to your taste
with salt and pepper, then nestle them in the tomato mixture. Lower the heat so the
liquid is just barely simmering, cover, and simmer until the fish is cooked through but
still juicy, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve and share, with lots of the tomato mixture spooned
over the salmon.
KITCHEN TIP
With a cooking method like this one, you really don’t need to worry about overcooking the salmon because its juices
will be absorbed by the tomato mixture and ultimately served with the fish.
FISH 121
MEAT
“The Chef’s Steak” Grilled Rib-Eye with
Tarragon Mustard Butter, 125
Grilled Flank Steak with Grilled Asparagus
and Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto, 126
Grilled New York Strip Loin with Grilled
Garlic and Onions, 129
Brown Butter Pan-Roasted Filet Mignon
with Garlic and Thyme, 130
Beer-Braised Beef Short Ribs, 133
Italian-Style Meatloaf with
Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Black Olives,
Oregano, and Parmesan, 134
Mediterranean Beef Stew, 138
Curried Beef Skewers with
Lime Mint Yogurt, 141
Amarone-Braised Lamb Shanks, 142
Pan-Roasted Lamb Chops with
Fresh Tomato Mint Chutney, 145
Grilled Pork Chops with Grilled
Bell Peppers, 146
Honey Mustard Barbecue Baked
Baby Back Ribs, 149
Roasted Cherry Tomato Penne with
Italian Sausage and Fresh Basil, 150
Prosciutto Roast Pork Tenderloin
with Fennel Carrot Slaw, 155
Molasses Rum Grilled Pork Tenderloin
with Grilled Green and Red Onions, 156
Grilled Turkey Breast with Cranberry
Sage BBQ Sauce, 159
Roasted Chicken Wings, 160
Thyme-Baked Chicken with Mushroom
Red Wine Sauce, 163
Coconut-Crusted Chicken with Mango
Ginger Mint Salsa, 164
Grenadian Caramel Nutmeg Chicken, 167
“THE CHEF’S STEAK” GRILLED RIB-EYE
WITH TARRAGON MUSTARD BUTTER
Of all the steaks that I’ve ever grilled, the rib-eye is by far my favourite. It’s cut from the prime rib and thus
beautifully marbled with fat, which of course means flavour, lots of flavour—the sort of addictive flavour that turns
on a chef. And of course any steak is even better with a slice of old-school flavoured butter melting over the top.
Serves 4
1/4 cup (60 mL) of softened butter
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of finely chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of minced shallot
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of Worcestershire sauce
4 rib-eye steaks, each 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
Several sprinkles of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Begin with the flavoured butter. In a small bowl, stir together the butter, tarragon,
shallot, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce. Place a roughly square piece of plastic
wrap on your work surface. Scoop the butter onto the plastic wrap close to the edge
nearest to you, forming a rough log about 4 inches (10 cm) long. Roll the plastic wrap
around the butter once, then use your fingers to shape the butter into a smooth, even
log. Tightly roll up the plastic wrap, grasp the ends of the plastic, and twirl the works
a few times, tightening the butter into a perfect cylinder. Refrigerate for several hours
or overnight until the butter is firm enough to slice.
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting. Just before you cook them, pat the
steaks dry and season them heavily with salt and pepper.
Lightly oil the grill, then place the steaks at a 45-degree angle to the grates. After a
few minutes, turn them 90 degrees to get the perfect steakhouse grill marks. Grill for a
few minutes longer, then flip and repeat. A medium-rare steak will take about 10 to 12
minutes in total. Serve each steak with a thick slice of steakhouse butter gently melting
over the top.
KITCHEN TIP
To gauge the doneness of the steaks, poke them with your finger. As they cook, their muscle fibres tighten, so you’ll
feel the increased resistance as they progress in doneness. Of course this is a skill that takes some time to master,
so feel free to do what every novice cook does: make a small cut into the meat and have a peek.
MEAT 125
GRILLED FLANK STEAK
WITH GRILLED ASPARAGUS AND
SUN-DRIED TOMATO PESTO
In the world of meat, the more a muscle works, the tougher it gets and the more flavour it develops. But unlike most
tougher cuts, flank steak does not require a long cooking time to tenderize. This cut is not quite as tender as a strip
loin or rib-eye, but it is tender enough to simply grill as a way to enjoy its unmistakably deep beefy flavour. I love it
with smoky charred asparagus topped with brightly flavoured sun-dried tomato pesto. Serves 4
FOR THE PESTO
1 cup (250 mL) of tightly packed fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup (125 mL) of oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
1/4 cup (60 mL) of pine nuts
1/4 cup (60 mL) of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup (60 mL) of extra virgin olive oil
FOR THE STEAK
1 flank steak (1-1/2 to 2 pounds/750 g to 1 kg)
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 bunch of asparagus (about 1 pound/500 g), woody end of the stems trimmed off
Make the pesto first. Toss the basil, tomatoes, pine nuts, Parmesan, and olive oil into
your food processor. Pulse just long enough to coarsely chop and thoroughly mix the
pesto, but not long enough to smoothly purée it.
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Season the steak well with salt and pepper to your taste. Grill the steak, turning once
or twice, until it reaches your favourite doneness. Medium-rare will take about 10
minutes in total.
While the steak is grilling, splash the olive oil on the asparagus and season to your
taste with salt and pepper. Place on the grill perpendicular to the grates. Grill, rolling
with a pair of tongs to expose all sides to the heat, until they’re tender and slightly
charred, about 5 minutes. Arrange on a serving platter.
When the steak is done, let it rest for a few minutes before slicing it across the grain
into very thin strips. Arrange over the asparagus and top with the pesto. Serve and
share!
KITCHEN TIP
If you slice the flank steak immediately after grilling it, you’ll lose quite a bit of its tasty juices.
As any meat roasts, its fibres tense and its internal juices heat up and are driven to the centre, where they
accumulate under pressure. Resting the meat after cooking gives the fibres a chance to relax and reabsorb the
flavourful juices.
126 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
GRILLED NEW YORK STRIP LOIN
WITH GRILLED GARLIC AND ONIONS
I love roasted garlic almost as much as I love grilled steak. This dish combines both addictively tasty ingredients with
equally attractive grilled onions. The flavours are simple but the results are memorably flavourful. Serves 4
4 thick New York strip loin steaks, neatly trimmed by your butcher
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
4 large onions
1/4 cup (60 mL) of olive oil
4 heads of garlic
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Pat the steaks dry and season them lightly with salt and pepper to your taste. Neatly
trim the top and bottom of the onions, then peel them. Slice each one into 4 thick
slices, taking care to keep their rings intact. Neatly spread them out on a platter and
brush lightly with olive oil. Lightly season to your taste with salt and pepper. Using a
serrated knife, slice off the top third of each garlic head. Brush the exposed garlic with
oil and season them as well.
Place the steaks on one side of your grill at a 45-degree angle to the grates. After a
few minutes, turn the steaks 90 degrees to get the perfect steakhouse grill marks. Grill
for a few minutes longer, then flip and repeat. A medium-rare steak will take about 10
minutes. Rest the steaks on a serving platter while the onions and garlic finish.
Meanwhile, on the other side of your grill, arrange the onion rings and garlic heads cut
side down. Turn the onions once they begin to brown. Continue cooking the garlic
heads until they soften and lightly brown.
Squeeze a head of grilled garlic cloves onto each steak and top with the grilled
onions. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Patting meat dry is essential before grilling. Wet meat steams on the grill, but dry meat easily develops the
flavourful crusty exterior that defines a great steak.
Grilling or roasting garlic transforms its sharp pungency into a smooth, mellow, caramelized treat.
MEAT 129
BROWN BUTTER PAN-ROASTED
FILET MIGNON WITH GARLIC AND THYME
Filet mignon is melt-in-your-mouth tender but within the world of beef comparatively bland. These steaks are at their
best when their cooking method adds lots of brown flavour. That’s why I love searing them in flavourful brown
butter, then finishing them with aromatic thyme and pungent garlic. Serves 4
4 large filets mignons (each 6 to 8 ounces/175 to 250 g), patted dry
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of vegetable oil
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of butter
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 heaping tablespoon (20 mL) of minced fresh thyme
Pat the steaks dry and lightly season them with salt and pepper to your taste. Preheat
your heaviest (preferably cast-iron) frying pan over medium-high heat. Splash in the
vegetable oil and gently swirl it to coat the pan. Continue heating until the oil is
shimmering hot but not smoking. Add the butter to the side of the pan where the oil
gathers and pools. When the butter has melted, swirl the pan for a moment or two until
the butter just begins to brown and sizzle. Add the steaks to the pan, arranging them
slightly apart from each other. Watch and listen to the still-browning butter. Adjust the
heat so it’s high enough to maintain a sizzling sear but not so high that the butter begins
to burn.
Sear the steaks in the butter, turning them once or twice, until they’re well browned, 5
or 6 minutes or so on each side. Baste the meat constantly, angling the pan briefly and
spooning some of the flavourful butter over the top of the meat, then letting it run off.
Continue cooking until the steaks reach your preferred doneness: they’re medium-rare
when a meat thermometer inserted into them reaches 140°F (60°C), 10 to 12 minutes
in total.
Rest the steaks briefly on a serving platter. Just before serving, return the pan to
medium-high heat and swirl the garlic into the butter. Cook just a few moments, until
sizzling and aromatic. Stir in the thyme, then immediately spoon the fragrant butter
over the steaks. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Filet mignon is one of the least flavourful cuts on the cow. It’s prized for its tenderness, but because it’s a relatively
inactive muscle, it lacks flavour. This cut benefits mightily from patient caramelization, transforming it with a prized
crusty exterior and a lusciously smooth interior.
130 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
BEER-BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS
If you crave deep, rich beefy flavour as much as I do, then you’ll love braising beef short ribs. Of all the cuts
available, these have the richest, beefiest flavour. They’re quite tough, though, so they need a slow, patient braising
surrounded by tasty broth to release all that flavour. Serves 4
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of any cooking oil
4 pounds (2 kg) of beef short ribs, cut into 3- to 4-inch (8 to 10 cm) lengths
4 onions, thinly sliced
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 bottles of your favourite dark beer
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried thyme
2 bay leaves
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Preheat your oven to 350°F (190°C).
Splash the oil into a Dutch oven or your favourite large heavy ovenproof pan with a
tight-fitting lid. Over medium-high heat, patiently and thoroughly brown the ribs, about
10 minutes. For best results, don’t crowd the pan—instead, brown the ribs in two
batches. Transfer the ribs to a plate. Pour off most of the fat, then toss in the onions
and garlic. Sauté until they’re golden brown and fragrant, about 10 minutes.
Pour in the beer and stir in the thyme and bay leaves. Place the ribs on top of the
onions. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then cover the pot tightly
with a lid or foil. Place the works in your oven.
Braise the ribs until they’re tender and the meat easily pulls away from the bones, 2 to
2-1/2 hours. Transfer the ribs and onions to a serving platter and cover with foil to
keep them warm. Skim off as much fat from the braising liquid as possible, then bring
it to a boil over high heat and quickly reduce it to a sauce-like consistency. Remove
and discard the bay leaves. Pour the sauce over the ribs. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
One of the hallmarks of any great braised or stewed beef dish is the deep, rich flavours that can come only from
patiently browning the meat. This essential flavour building can happen only at the beginning; when liquid is added to
the pot, the temperature drops well below the magic caramelizing zone.
MEAT 133
ITALIAN-STYLE MEATLOAF WITH
SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, BLACK OLIVES,
OREGANO, AND PARMESAN
Meatloaf is easy to make, which makes it an excellent base for freestyle flavour. Cooks all over the world stir local
flavours into ground meat. My favourite version comes from the grand tradition of Italian cooking. This is a great
way to jazz up this old-fashioned classic with a newfangled twist or two! Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 large eggs
1/2 cup (125 mL) of tomato paste
1-1/2 pounds (750 g) of ground beef chuck
2 cups (500 mL) of dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1/2 cup (125 mL) of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried oregano
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
Preheat your oven to 350°F (190°C). Lightly oil a small baking sheet.
In your favourite sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil, then toss in the
onions and garlic. Sauté them until they’re golden brown and fragrant, about 10
minutes.
Meanwhile, lightly whisk the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the tomato paste. Add the
ground beef, bread crumbs, tomatoes, olives, Parmesan, parsley, oregano, hot sauce,
and the sautéed onions. Quickly and efficiently stir and blend with your hands until
everything is thoroughly mixed. Transfer to the baking sheet and shape into a thick
loaf.
Bake until a meat thermometer inserted into the centre of the meatloaf reads 160°F
(70°C), about 1 hour. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Sautéing the onions first not only adds flavour to them but also removes any excess moisture that may weigh
down the meatloaf.
If possible, ask your butcher to coarsely grind the chuck meat for you; your meatloaf will have a heartier,
meatier texture.
134 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
KNIVES & POTS
You don’t need a chef’s inventory of oddly shaped knives and obscure pots to succeed
in the kitchen. For 99 percent of your day-to-day needs, just a few basic tools will do:
One large pot, big enough to boil pasta in
One smaller pot, big enough for a batch of pasta sauce
One frying pan, large enough to fry up a batch of pancakes
One large chef’s knife, for the bulk of your slicing and dicing
One serrated knife, for slicing bread
One small paring knife, for opening envelopes and cutting limes for your gin and
tonics
MEDITERRANEAN BEEF STEW
Beef stew is universal. Gently stewing and simmering tough cubes of meat into tender, flavourful submission is a
common cooking method all over the world. Cooks everywhere take the opportunity to stir local flavours into the pot.
The flavours of the Mediterranean are among my favourites. Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
2 pounds (1 kg) of beef stewing meat, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes, patted dry
4 onions, sliced
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 can (28 ounces/796 mL) of chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried oregano
1 cup (250 mL) of Kalamata olives, pitted and halved
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of drained capers
The zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 bunch of parsley, chopped
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Preheat your oven to 300°F (150°C).
Splash the oil into a Dutch oven or your favourite stew pot with a tight-fitting lid. Heat
the oil over medium-high heat until it’s hot but not smoking. Patiently brown the beef
in several batches, taking care not to crowd the pot. Adjust the heat as needed to keep
the meat sizzling and browning. Transfer each batch of the browned meat to a plate.
After you’ve removed the last batch of meat, toss in the onions and garlic and sauté
until they’re golden brown and aromatic, about 10 minutes.
Return the browned beef to the pot. Stir in the tomatoes and oregano. Bring to a boil,
then cover tightly and transfer to your oven. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally,
until the meat is tender, about 1 hour. A few minutes before serving, stir in the olives,
capers, lemon zest, lemon juice, parsley, and salt and pepper to your taste. Serve and
share!
KITCHEN TIP
Instead of stewing the meat in the oven, you may continue simmering it on top of your stove. Adjust the heat so the
aromatic stewing liquid is just barely simmering. Alternatively, after you brown the meat, you may pour everything
into your slow cooker and simmer for a few hours until tender.
138 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
CURRIED BEEF SKEWERS WITH
LIME MINT YOGURT
On the street corners of the world, ground beef is grilled in many ways—juicy hamburger patties, spicy seasoned
tacos, even hand-formed skewers. For cooks all over the globe, ground beef is dressed up with local aromatic
flavours. I enjoyed this favourite on my first trip to Greece. Serves 4
1 egg
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried oregano
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of curry powder
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of tomato paste
1 pound (500 g) of ground beef chuck
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly
ground pepper
Olive oil for drizzling
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
The zest and juice of 1 lime
1/2 cup (125 mL) of plain yogurt
1/2 cup (125 mL) of finely chopped fresh mint
Soak 8 long wooden skewers in a bowl of water for an hour or so. Prepare and
preheat your grill to its highest setting.
In a medium bowl, gently whisk together the egg, garlic, oregano, curry powder, and
tomato paste. Add the ground meat and lightly season it to your taste with salt and
pepper. Mix everything together quickly and efficiently with your hands. Divide the
mixture into 8 parts and carefully form each portion into a thick cigar shape around the
top 6 inches (15 cm) or so of a wooden skewer. Drizzle the skewers with olive oil
and reserve on a platter.
Stir the lime zest, lime juice, yogurt, and mint together to make a simple dipping sauce.
Grill the skewers, turning frequently, until they’re nicely browned, juicy, and tender, 6
to 8 minutes. Serve and share with the dipping sauce.
KITCHEN TIP
It’s best to avoid overmixing the ground meat—its texture is best when it remains a bit coarse.
The structure of cooked ground beef is very strong, so it easily absorbs many creative ingredients and
flavours. As with any ground meat, though, if the meat is accidentally overcooked, the oven or grill’s heat will
first squeeze out all its juicy, flavourful moisture before the protein structure literally breaks down and
crumbles into oblivion.
MEAT 141
AMARONE-BRAISED LAMB SHANKS
Lamb shanks are an essential part of any cook’s repertoire. They’re intensely flavourful and also inexpensive. They
do need a long, slow braising to fully tenderize, but they’ll reward your patience with a richly flavoured meaty and
memorable meal. I think of them as a special-occasion treat, which is why I find it so easy to pour an entire bottle of
one of the world’s great wines into the pot! Serves 4
2 or 3 tablespoons (30 or 45 mL) of olive oil
4 large lamb shanks
2 onions, diced
2 carrots, diced
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
2 large sprigs of rosemary
1 can (5-1/2 ounces/156 mL) of tomato paste
1 bottle of Amarone or other big, flavourful red wine
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped fresh parsley
Preheat your oven to 300°F (150°C).
Splash the olive oil into a Dutch oven or your favourite soup pot and heat it over
medium-high heat. Add the shanks and brown them thoroughly, turning once or twice
until all the sides are golden brown and caramelized. Transfer the shanks to a plate.
Add the onions, carrots, and garlic to the pot and sauté until the vegetables soften and
brown lightly, about 10 minutes. Toss in the bay leaves and rosemary, spoon in the
tomato paste, and pour in the wine. Stir everything together, then nestle the lamb
shanks into the works. Bring the liquid to a boil, then cover tightly and transfer to your
oven. Braise until the meat is tender, about 90 minutes.
Carefully transfer the shanks to a platter, cover them with foil, and keep them warm in
the oven while you finish the sauce. Place the pot over medium-high heat and boil until
the braising broth reduces to a sauce-like consistency, about 5 minutes. Stir in the
parsley and pour the sauce over the lamb shanks. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Lamb shanks are full of connective tissue that dissolves in the braising liquid during the cooking, giving the
sauce a beautiful silky smooth texture.
Amarone is made from partially sun-dried grapes, so it has an intense raisin-like flavour that easily and
extravagantly flavours the rich, hearty lamb shanks.
142 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
PAN-ROASTED LAMB CHOPS
WITH FRESH TOMATO MINT CHUTNEY
I love the rustic flavour of juicy lamb chops, especially topped with spoonfuls of a bright condiment like this chutney,
which features sweet cherry tomatoes quickly stewed with sweet brown sugar, sour red wine vinegar, aromatic
spices, and a last-second fresh mint accent. Serves 4
FOR THE TOMATO CHUTNEY
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of red wine vinegar
2 green onions, white and green parts thinly sliced separately
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) of ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) of salt
2 cups (500 mL) of cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup (125 mL) of chopped fresh mint
8 lamb loin chops
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup (60 mL) of vegetable oil
To make the chutney, pour the vinegar into a medium saucepan. Add the white part of
the green onions, the sugar, hot sauce, cloves, and salt. Bring to a quick simmer for a
minute or two. Stir in the tomatoes and cook just long enough for the mixture to again
simmer. Transfer to a serving bowl and stir in the mint and green tops of the onions,
preserving their fresh flavour.
Preheat your favourite heavy frying pan over medium-high heat.
Pat the lamb chops dry on folded paper towels and season them to your taste with salt
and pepper. Pour half the oil into the pan, gently swirling to evenly coat the bottom.
Wait for the oil to heat through. Gauge its temperature by holding a chop with a pair of
tongs and tentatively dipping in one corner. If it doesn’t sizzle dramatically, wait a
few moments until the oil is hotter.
Place as many of the chops in the pan as you can without crowding them and slowing
down the heat. You can always brown a few in a second batch with the remaining oil
if you need to. Sear the chops, turning once, until medium-rare, 4 or 5 minutes per
side. Serve and share with the tomato chutney.
KITCHEN TIP
Lamb chops are built for speed. They’re cut from the loin, so their meat is tender, and with just a quick heating,
they’re ready to go. They’re low in fat too, which means they require quick cooking. Too long in the pan and they’ll
lose what little flavourful juicy fat they have and quickly dry out. A hot pan is key. Browning starts immediately and
finishes before the interior overcooks.
MEAT 145
GRILLED PORK CHOPS
WITH GRILLED BELL PEPPERS
Pork chops are perfect for the grill. Their lean white flesh is easy to brown and easily absorbs the smoky essence of
the grill. While the grill is fiery hot, bring a medley of bell peppers along for a flavour ride too! Serves 4
4 bone-in pork rib chops, about 1-inch (2.5 cm) thick
1 red bell pepper, quartered and seeded
1 green bell pepper, quartered and seeded
1 yellow bell pepper, quartered and seeded
A splash or two of vegetable oil
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
A drizzle or two of balsamic vinegar
Rest the pork chops at room temperature for 20 minutes or so before cooking. Ready
the peppers for the grill by gently flattening them, then gently tossing them with a
splash of vegetable oil. Lightly season them to your taste with salt and pepper.
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Pat the pork chops dry, then rub them with a splash of vegetable oil. Season them
lightly to your taste with salt and pepper. Grill, turning once or twice, until a meat
thermometer inserted in the centre registers 145°F (65°C), about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, place the bell peppers on the grill and sear until tender, turning once or
twice. Top each pork chop with some of the grilled peppers and drizzle with balsamic
vinegar. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Because pork is so lean, it can dry out very quickly on the grill. Bringing the meat to room temperature before grilling
shortens the amount of time the meat has to spend on the grill before it’s properly cooked. The exterior doesn’t dry
out waiting for the centre to cook through.
146 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
HONEY MUSTARD BARBECUE
BAKED BABY BACK RIBS
The secret to great-tasting ribs infused with barbecue flavour and so tender they’re falling off the bone is time—lots
of it. Ribs are incredibly tough, so it takes long, slow, patient cooking to coax out their flavour and render them
tender. A brightly flavoured barbecue sauce doesn’t hurt either! Serves 4
2 racks of baby back ribs
1 cup (250 mL) of orange juice
1/2 cup (125 mL) of honey
1/2 cup (125 mL) of yellow mustard
1/2 cup (125 mL) of ketchup
1/2 cup (125 mL) of cider vinegar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
Preheat your oven to 300°F (150°C).
Arrange the ribs in a large roasting pan or baking dish. Whisk together the remaining
ingredients and pour over the ribs, turning the meat once or twice to evenly coat it.
Cover the pan as tightly as possible with foil.
Bake the ribs for 3 hours. Remove the foil and continue baking for another hour,
turning the ribs a few times to baste them with the flavourful barbecue sauce.
Arrange the ribs on a serving platter. Pour off any fat that has accumulated with the
sauce and pour the sauce over the ribs. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Because of the long cooking time, it is important that no moisture escapes from the pan—if it does, the ribs will
eventually dry out. If your pan is wider than your foil, you can fashion two sheets into one larger one. Lay one sheet
directly on top of a second sheet. Carefully and tightly fold one long edge over twice, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) each
time. Open up the two sheets like a book, flatten and crease the middle seam with your finger, then tightly cover the
pan. You’ll have plenty of foil to tightly crimp the edges and protect the ribs during their slow, moist braise.
MEAT 149
ROASTED CHERRY TOMATO PENNE WITH
ITALIAN SAUSAGE AND FRESH BASIL
Every day, chefs bring out a wide range of flavours on the job. Few of those flavours seem to make it home, though.
This deeply flavourful pasta dish is one that has. Long ago in a restaurant kitchen I discovered that slowly roasting a
pan of fresh tomatoes with Italian sausage transformed the mix into an intensely flavoured rustic pasta sauce.
Cooks’ food. Crew lunch. An old friend! Serves 4
8 cups (2 L) of cherry tomatoes
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 Italian sausages, sliced into 1/2-inch (1 cm) thick rounds
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
12 ounces (375 g) of penne
Leaves from 1 large bunch of fresh basil
4 green onions
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C).
Toss the tomatoes, onions, garlic, sausages, and olive oil together. Season to your
taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a roasting pan and place in the oven. Roast until
the tomatoes, onion, and sausages are lightly brown and smell amazing, 30 to 45
minutes.
When the tomatoes are nearly done, bring a large pot of salted water to a full rolling
boil. Dump in the penne and cook until edible, stirring occasionally. After 10 minutes
or so fish out a piece and bite it. At first it will be too firm, but in just a few minutes it
will transform, so continue fishing and tasting until you like the texture. Pasta is best
when it’s tender enough to eat but hasn’t become too soft. Great pasta retains lots of
pleasing chewy texture.
While the pasta is cooking, stack a tall pile of basil leaves, roll it into a tight cylinder,
and slice as thinly as possible. Slice the green onions as well.
As the pasta finishes cooking, add a ladleful of the pasta water to the roasting pan. The
moisture will dissolve any caramelized brown bits of flavour on the bottom of the pan.
When the pasta is done, drain it and return it to the pot. Add the roasted sausages,
onions, and tomatoes, scraping along every last bit of roasted flavour from the pan.
Toss in the basil leaves and green onions and stir everything together. Serve and
share!
KITCHEN TIP
Busy restaurant cooks pay no attention to the clock. They simply watch their food. Keep an eye on it. Make
decisions. Watch for flavour. Wait for flavour. Stay vigilant and patient. The dissolving tomatoes and browning
sausage will reward you with a deeply flavoured rustic pasta dish.
150 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
TIME AND
DONENESS
“How long until it’s done?” That’s certainly one of the most common questions in any
kitchen.
In most recipes, timing is portrayed as rigid and precise. But timing is actually one of
the most flexible factors in your kitchen. It’s affected by numerous variables, many
beyond your control. Words on paper cannot replace the in-the-moment accuracy of
your own observations. For instance, regardless of how it gets there, a roast chicken is
done when it reaches 165°F (72°C) internally.
So perhaps a better question is “How do I know when it’s done?”
PROSCIUTTO ROAST PORK TENDERLOIN
WITH FENNEL CARROT SLAW
This dish shows off a neat prosciutto party trick. Thin slices of this special cured meat are easily wrapped around
just about any meat or fish. When heated, even over a wet marinade, the prosciutto slices will shrink-wrap and bind,
holding on tightly in a way that other hams don’t. Serves 4 to 6
6 thin slices of prosciutto
2 pork tenderloins (each 8 to 12 ounces/250 to 375 g), trimmed and patted dry
FOR THE SLAW
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of honey
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried dill
1 cup (250 mL) of grated fennel bulb
1/2 cup (125 mL) of grated carrot
1 red onion, thinly sliced
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
Lay a prosciutto slice on your work surface with a narrow side facing you. Lay
another slice to the side, overlapping the first by half or so. Add a third, again
overlapping by half. Fold under several inches of the narrow tapered end of a
tenderloin, so the loin is an even thickness along its length and the same width as the
overlapping prosciutto. Place the pork tenderloin along the bottom edge of the
prosciutto slices and roll the meats into a tight cylinder. Place the loin seam side down
in a roasting pan or on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining prosciutto and
tenderloin. Roast until a meat thermometer reads between 160°F and 170°F (70°C to
75°C), 15 to 20 minutes. Let rest a few minutes.
Meanwhile, make the slaw. Whisk together the vinegar, honey, olive oil, and dill into
a smooth dressing. Add the fennel, carrots, and onion. Toss everything together until
the veggies are coated well with the dressing. Slice the tenderloins into a few thick
pieces. Serve and share with the slaw.
KITCHEN TIP
Pork tenderloin is available in various trimmed forms. Ask your butcher to remove the “silverskin,” a tough
connective tissue covering the thicker end of the meat.
MEAT 155
MOLASSES RUM GRILLED PORK
TENDERLOIN WITH GRILLED GREEN AND
RED ONIONS
Pork tenderloins are excellent for grilling. They easily absorb aromatic marinade flavours and then the flavours of
your grill. Today’s pork is relatively lean, so it benefits from a fast sear on your grill. High heat browns the meat
before the interior overcooks and dries out. While the grill is running at full throttle, it’s easy to toss on a few onions
too. They automatically taste good with anything grilled. Serves 4
1/2 cup (125 mL) of molasses
1/4 cup (60 mL) of spiced rum
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of grainy mustard
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of ground allspice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
2 pork tenderloins (each 8 to 12 ounces/250 to 375 g), trimmed and patted dry
2 large red onions, thickly sliced
4 green onions
A good drizzle of olive oil
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
Stir the molasses, rum, mustard, soy sauce, allspice, and hot sauce together. Place the
pork in a resealable plastic bag, then pour in the marinade. Massage with your fingers,
evenly distributing the flavour. Marinate for at least 1 hour or refrigerate overnight for
maximum flavour.
Prepare and preheat your grill to its highest setting.
Arrange the red onions on a baking sheet, carefully keeping the rings intact. Lay the
green onions next to each other on the same sheet. Drizzle them all lightly with olive
oil and season them with salt and pepper to your taste.
Remove the tenderloins from the marinade, discarding the marinade. Place the
tenderloins diagonally across the grates of the grill. Grill, turning once or twice, until
a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads between 160°F and
170°F (70°C to 75°C), 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the pork to a serving platter, loosely
tent with foil, and let rest for a few minutes, giving it a chance to reabsorb its juices.
Meanwhile, carefully position the green onions perpendicular to the grates, and
carefully place the red onions next to them. Grill until lightly browned, about 10
minutes on each side.
Slice the pork and arrange on plates or a platter. Scatter both kinds of onions over the
sliced pork. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Under pressure from the high heat of the grill penetrating from the exterior, the delicate juices of pork tenderloin (or
any meat, for that matter) concentrate in the meat’s centre. If the meat isn’t allowed to rest before it’s sliced, those
juices are released, squeezed out by tense meat fibres, to pool on your plate. Resting allows the heat-stressed meat
fibres to relax and to reabsorb the flavourful juices.
156 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
GRILLED TURKEY BREAST WITH
CRANBERRY SAGE BBQ SAUCE
You can do a lot more with turkey than just roast a giant one once a year with holiday gravy. Now and then during
the rest of the year, bring home a simple boneless turkey breast and grill it. You’ll enjoy the smoky flavours of roast
turkey without the hassles of the oven. And you can still have cranberry too! Serves 4
1/4 cup (60 mL) of vegetable oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of chili powder
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of cinnamon
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of salt
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of your favourite hot sauce
A boneless skinless half turkey breast (2 to
3 pounds/1 to 1.5 kg), patted dry
FOR THE BARBECUE SAUCE
1 cup (250 mL) of cranberry jelly
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of crumbled dried sage
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of chili powder
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of soy sauce
Prepare and preheat your grill to medium.
Whisk together the olive oil, chili powder, cinnamon, salt, and hot sauce. Rub the
aromatic oil all over the turkey breast. Place the turkey on your grill. Close the lid and
begin roasting, turning every 10 minutes or so.
While the turkey is grilling, whip up the barbecue sauce. In a small bowl, whisk
together the cranberry jelly, mustard, olive oil, sage, chili powder, and soy sauce.
After 30 minutes or so, when the turkey has begun to brown, begin brushing on the
barbecue sauce. Add another coat every few minutes, turning the meat over as you do.
The turkey is done when a meat thermometer inserted in its thickest part reads 165°F
(72°C), about an hour in total. Transfer the breast to a serving platter to rest for 15
minutes or so. Drizzle on any extra barbecue sauce. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Because the cranberry jelly in the barbecue sauce is loaded with sugar, it will burn if exposed to too much heat.
That’s why it’s best to glaze with the sauce as the turkey finishes, toward the end of its cooking time.
MEAT 159
ROASTED CHICKEN WINGS
You don’t need a deep-fryer to enjoy chicken wings at home. They’re just as tasty tossed with an aromatic herb
coating and simply roasted. Caramelized chicken always tastes good! Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of whole wheat flour
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of sugar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried thyme
2 teaspoons (10 mL) of black pepper
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of salt
48 large chicken wing pieces (3 to 4 pounds/1.5 to 2 kg)
Preheat your oven to 450°F (230°C). Lightly oil 1 or 2 baking sheets.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, thyme, pepper, and salt. Add the
wings and toss until they’re evenly coated with the flour mixture. Spread the wings out
in a single layer on the baking sheets. Roast, turning once after 10 minutes or so, until
cooked through and golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Flour and sugar speed up the browning of the wings. They help the surface brown quickly, before the chicken dries
out, and add lots of toasted flavours to the roasting effort.
160 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
THYME-BAKED CHICKEN
WITH MUSHROOM RED WINE SAUCE
This is a classic group of flavours that any cook coming up the ranks in a French-inspired kitchen will learn. I never
tire of the hearty flavour of thyme-scented roast chicken with earthy mushrooms and aromatic red wine. Serves 4
4 large boneless skinless chicken breasts
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of dried thyme
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons (30 mL) of butter
8 ounces (250 g) of thinly sliced mushrooms
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup (250 mL) of chicken broth
1/2 cup (125 mL) of your favourite dry red wine
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of water
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of cornstarch
2 tablespoons (30 mL) or so of chopped fresh parsley
Preheat your oven to 450°F (230°C).
Pat the chicken breasts dry with folded paper towel. Toss them into a bowl and splash
in the oil. Toss until evenly coated, then evenly sprinkle on the thyme. Lightly season
to your taste with salt and pepper. Arrange in a baking dish and bake until cooked
through but still juicy, about 25 minutes. The chicken is perfectly cooked when a meat
thermometer inserted in its thickest part reads 165°F (72°C).
Meanwhile, create the sauce. In your favourite sauté pan or frying pan, melt the butter
over medium-high heat until it sizzles and lightly browns. Toss in the mushrooms,
onion, and garlic and sauté until lightly browned and deliciously caramelized, 15
minutes or so. Pour in the broth and the wine and bring to a rapid simmer for a few
minutes. Whisk together the water and cornstarch, then pour the slurry into the sauce,
stirring gently until the sauce is evenly thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the
parsley. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve with the chicken and share!
KITCHEN TIP
Cornstarch thickens hot liquids quickly, but if it continues to simmer it will lose strength over time.
The molecular bonds that it initially forms to thicken the sauce will fracture and break, leaving the sauce watery. The
key is to add the cornstarch just before serving, then take it off the heat.
MEAT 163
COCONUT-CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH
MANGO GINGER MINT SALSA
Crusting is a time-honoured way to jazz up just about any meat or fish by enclosing it with flavour and texture.
Coconut ranks as an ideal crusting candidate, especially on chicken breasts. Its distinctive crunchy texture adheres
easily to the meat while its sweet island taste inspires a simple tasty salsa. Serves 4
FOR THE SALSA
1 large ripe mango, peeled and diced
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 mL) of finely chopped red bell pepper
1/2 cup (125 mL) of mint sprigs, tightly stacked, rolled, and thinly sliced
The zest and juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of grated frozen ginger
1 tablespoon (15 mL) of honey
1 teaspoon (5 mL) of olive oil
1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) of salt
1 cup (250 mL) of all-purpose flour
2 eggs, lightly whisked
2 cups (500 mL) of flaked or shredded coconut, sweetened or unsweetened
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
4 large boneless skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and patted dry
Make the salsa first by simply tossing together the mango, green onions, red pepper,
mint, lime zest, lime juice, ginger, honey, olive oil, and salt. Reserve.
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Lightly oil a baking sheet.
Put the flour, eggs, and coconut into 3 separate bowls. Season the flour. Working with
one breast at a time, dredge the chicken in the flour, coating it evenly and shaking off
any excess. Dip the chicken into the egg, coating it evenly and letting any excess drip
off. Finally, dip the chicken into the coconut, turning, pressing, and sprinkling as
needed so the crust adheres. Place the crusted breast on the baking sheet. Repeat with
the remaining chicken. Bake until the breasts are golden brown and crusty, 15 to 20
minutes. The chicken is done when a meat thermometer inserted in its thickest part
registers 160°F (70°C). Arrange on a serving platter and top with the salsa. Serve and
share!
KITCHEN TIP
Sometimes your fingers end up just as crusty as the food you’re breading. To minimize mess and avoid thick fingers,
it helps to designate one hand for wet, the other for dry. As you bread the breasts, they’ll alternately be wet then
dry. If you only touch wet with your wet hand and dry with your dry hand, your fingers will stay manageable.
164 CHEF MICHAEL SMITH’S KITCHEN
GRENADIAN CARAMEL NUTMEG CHICKEN
As a wandering chef I’ve enjoyed many distinctive flavours around the world. One of my favourites is this uniquely
prepared dish. It’s remarkably simple and full of authentic island flavour. The unusual cooking method slowly
caramelizes and tenderizes the chicken, simmering it in—and infusing it with—a fragrant nutmeg broth. Serves 4
1 large chicken (about 4 pounds/2 kg)
1 cup (250 mL) of brown rice
A sprinkle or two of salt and lots of freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup (125 mL) of vegetable oil
1/2 cup (125 mL) of sugar
1 cup (250 mL) of dark spiced rum